Wednesday, 25 June – Friday, 27 June

Well, our trip finally arrived.  Scott would be so happy that we are doing this and we all wish he could be here to share the trip with us.  Scott and I spent 3 weeks at Rouge Bordeaux in 2019.  We had a wonderful time and I wanted to share my memories and experiences with the rest of my family.

The Goodmans came in on Wednesday, 25 June to attend Dylan’s graduation party.  We all helped with the preparation.  It was planned that way so the Goodmans could fly in and then we could all leave for France together.  It was a great party despite the rain.  Good to have the whole family together.  

Glenn, Beth, Kate and Jacob Goodman, Mary Grina, Dylan, Kris, Sydney and Steve Meek.

Friday at noon we left for the airport and made it past TSA but, our flight was delayed.  The plane we were leaving on was coming from Paris and was due to arrive when we were scheduled to take off!  We were all able to get into the lounge as Beth went herself and I used 7 of my passes.  We got food and settled into the lounge.  Then Dylan, Jacob, Kris, Beth and I decided to play Hearts.  It was a great way to kill time.  I ended up winning as I Shot the Moon!

All of us decided to do carry on (I had my backpack, hat, cane and suitcase).  While waiting in the smallest gate area ever (this was a full flight) I notice Rudy Gobert, a Timberwolf, who is from France. He was in the lounge area and going on our flight.  Jacob helped me get my luggage stowed.  It turned out I was in seat 9J and Rudy was in seat 2J, the first seat in the front.  He is 7 ft 1 in and I couldn’t imagine how he could fit into his seat.  I am not sure how many passengers recognized him.  On my way to the bathroom I had to pass his seat and I said “I enjoyed watching you play”.  He said thank you.  What a tall handsome man.  The flight was uneventful.

Steve, Sydney Kris, Dylan, Jacob, Beth, Kate and Glenn in the lounge at MSP.

Saturday 28 June

We landed at Charles de Gaulle.  I was trying to be so smart and I requested a wheel chair.  I thought the whole family could come with me but they said there wasn’t room and off they went on their own to find the gate.  This is where my “fun” began.  There were about 10 of us needing assistance in the w/c area, most from other countries.  I got to go on the shuttle bus in the first group of 7.  We waited for about 20 minutes for what reason I couldn’t figure out.  Then we drove around the airport for another 20 minutes.  It was crazy. All the while I was wondering how the rest of my family was getting around.  I got to the immigration check in and I had to go through another screening but in this case I had to take out my computer and liquids and take off my jacket. Another couple who were with me were Indian and going to Bangalore. They didn’t speak French and their English was not very good.  So, when the gate people spoke English with a French accent it was hard to understand.  We then had to board another bus and yet again we were driven around the airport.  Then off the bus to another waiting area and finally a wheelchair arrived and I was on my way to the gate.  BUT not so fast!  Up an elevator, down some shopping area and finally I saw my family!!!  BUT, the flight was delayed again!  However, that was not all, we had a gate change and I was again whisked off by wheelchair to the new gate.  BUT that was not the end of it.  We had to go downstairs to a new waiting area and then board a bus.  This bus took us to the plane staircase.  We walked up 30 stairs and then finally we got to the jetway and on the plane!!!  What an ordeal.

Dylan, Sydney and Kate waiting to get picked up to go to the plane. Boring!

Bordeaux

Megan and Julien picked us up at the airport. They rented a 9 person van and used their car. Nine suitcases and nine back packs and it all fit! Our plan was to have a picnic lunch at the Cite’ du Vin.

The Cite’ du Vin is a museum in Bordeaux dedicated to wine. It opened in 2016. Its aim is to ensure the transmission, promotion and safeguarding of the cultural, universal and living heritage of wine. It represents the history of wine from around the world. There are giant films and interactive globes that give you information about the vineyards of the world. There is information about the varieties of wine and portraits of winegrowers from around the world. There was a wall showing the a number of grape varieties. The striking building itself, inspired by swirling wine and the Garonne River, is now an iconic landmark in Bordeaux. See pictures below.

Prior to entering the museum we enjoyed a classic French picnic under the trees. Julien and Megan laid out a beautiful spread, anchored by a warm, crusty baguette and trio of cheeses: Aged Basque Brebis – a firm, nutty sheep’s cheese, one version gently spiced with local Espelette pepper. Ash-riipened goat cheese – creamy, tangy and beautifully earthy. Camembert – soft, buttery and unmistakably French.

To go with the cheese: Rosette de Lyon with pistachios, duck sausage, Pate de champagne (also with Espelette), crisp cornichons, garlicky aioli and fresh cherry tomatoes and cucumber slices.

We sipped a white and rose from Chateau de Viaut, a family-run estate in Bordeaux’s Enter-deux-Mers region known for fresh food-friendly wines grown across 20 hectares of vineyard land.

Below: The exterior of the museum. Inside with the kids walking on the interactive floor explaining the wine areas, some models of chateaus of the area.

As part of our ticket we were able to have a glass of wine on the top floor of the museum. The wine was great and the views of Bordeaux were spectacular.

Syd and Steve outside on the balcony. Kris and Dylan having a glass of wine under the wine bottle ceiling.

This was a view from the top of the museum. The modern tramway opened in December 2003 and consists of four lines serving the city. In the background you can see the spires of the Cathedral of Saint-André which is the seat of the Archbishop of Bordeaux. It is registered as a World Heritage Site by Unesco. In 1096 Pope Urban Il consecrated this as Bordeaux’s first cathedral. It was used as a fodder store during the French Revolution, the cathedral was restored during the 19th century, sacristies were built on the site of the former Gothic cloister. Designed on a Latin cross ground plan, the Saint-André cathedral constitutes a fine example of Southern Gothic architecture.

The Chaban Delmas Bridge over the Garonne River. It is the longest vertical lift bridge in Europe. It is named in honor of Jacques Chabon-Delmas, a former Prime Minister of France and a former Mayor of Bordeaux. The Garonne is ranked as one of Europe’s cleanest rivers and is known as the “blonde river”. It’s color is due to sediment in the fresh water meeting saltwater from the ocean and forming small flakes that remain in suspension before being deposited on the estuary bed. The tides constant moving gives the river its beautiful blonde color.

Another thing to mention is about the terroir, Entre-Deux-Mers. It takes it’s name after the “two seas, the Garonne and the Dordogne river, between which it resides. Romanesque churches, bastides, dovecotes, fortified mills: all testify to a long wine history. On these clay-limestone soils are produced, among others, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superior and Entre-Deux-Mers appellations.

I failed to mention that it was HOT! The temp was 90 and we were all tired so we decided to opt out of Julien’s Bordeaux walking tour and head off to Rouge Bordeaux.

Rouge Bordeaux, our home for the next week.

Welcome to Rouge Bordeaux in the village of Auros! It is a place of special memories for me and I am looking forward to creating special memories with all of you. While here you will experience the welcoming spirit of Megan, Julien, Sawyer and Finn.

Auros is a village in southwest France in the region of New Aquitaine. It is located in the Haute Lande Girondine about 10 kilometers (about 6 miles) from Langon and about 60 kilometers (about 37 miles) from Bordeaux. It is the chief town of Canton Bazadais. It was once a predominately agricultural commune, focused on viticulture and tobacco. There is a tobacco drying barn next to Rouge Bordeaux.

Some sights in Auros.

The front of the house, the cars and Beth and Kate walking down the walkway.

Pantry, kitchen, dining room and living room.

The kids slept upstairs. This is where Scott and I stayed but they remodeled it into two room and added a second bath.

Kris and Steve’s room (red room) and Beth and Glenn’s room (Yellow).

The hot tub, pool and backyard.

After unpacking, we all headed to the pool for one on many, many games of volleyball. It was so refreshing.

Sparkling wine was on the menu and Megan had plenty of help from Sawyer and Martin (Sawyer’s friend).

We decided to make the first night simple so we had pizza. It wasn’t your ordinary pizza! The pizza came from Auros and the name of the shop was Seventies Pizza. It was delicious. We had Margarita, duck and goat cheese, duck gizzards with figs (really good), sheep’s cheese with cherry jam, spicy ham, and a pizza of potatoes, cream, lardon and and alpine cheese. All delicious.

A toast to being at Rouge Bordeaux.

Sydney, Kate, Beth, Kris, Steve, Megan, Julien, Dylan, Jacob, Glenn and Mary.

And of course we had wine which Sydney and Jacob enjoyed. The wine was a white from Catherine Lucas at Chateau La Peyrere.

Finally we ended our meal with a choice of two special eclairs from the local patisserie: Pistachio and chocolate. Delicious. Then off to bed!

Our usual morning routine

Each morning we would wake up to the rooster next door crowing and the church bells tolling the hour (listen below). We then would sit outside at the table enjoying our coffee and breakfast, pastries, yogurt, fruit and juice. Julien did prepare breakfast for us if we were not in a hurry.

Sunday 29 June – Arcachon, the Dune Du Pyla, a Pinasse to the Oyster Beds and a French BBQ

Arcachon & The Dune Du Pyla

We had a quick breakfast in the kitchen. The fruit was beautiful and the apricots were especially delicious. Everyone loved the yogurt!

Dune du Pyla

We set out early to visit the Dune du Pyla. I was especially excited to show my family this amazing dune. Scott and I had such a wonderful experience there and I wanted them to experience the wonders of the dune. Neither words nor pictures can capture this magnificent dune. It is the tallest sand dune in Europe located in the Arcachon Bay area. It is one of the most visited natural sites in France. This aerial view of the dune is from Wikipedia.

The dune measures about 500 meters wide, 2.7 km long and its height is currently 110 meters above sea level. It is moving 1 to 5.5 meters inland each year. It is gradually reclaiming the forest under the forces of the wind and tide.

We were on our way for a 2 hr drive. The bottom of the the dune is a forested area. You need to walk through the area until you get to sand. It is so interesting how the dune is encroaching on the forest.

The way up the dune is either by slogging through sand or going up 180 stairs. Previously Scott and I went up the stairs and I decided to go that way again. The stairs are a plastic type material and the handrail is a rope.

So up I started with Julien clearing the sand and Megan behind for support.

The rest of the family made it up as well!

The Atlantic from the top.

Kate, Beth, Glenn, Jacob, Dylan, Sawyer and Steve

Mary, Syd and Kris. Steve, Syd and Kris.

Dyan and Kris. Dylan, Beth (hidden) and Glenn.

What is everyone thinking? Glenn, Kate, Beth.

Finn, Sawyer, Megan and Julien. Megan, Mary and Julien.

Jacob, Beth, Kate and Glenn.

And then they all went down!!!

Our next adventure was taking a Pinasse to Lège-Cap-Ferret and the oyster beds for lunch.

Sights of Arcachon

Arcachon is a popular seaside resort town in the Landes forest in southwest France. It is known for oyster harvesting. The Arcachon bay is a bay in the Atlantic Ocean on the southwest coast of France. Dune du Play is part of this bay.

The harbor and our boat, the Pinasse Magymara

The Pinasse: Its origin and that of its name have been the subject of much controversy! They are lost in the mists of time. It is not certain that the word pinassé comes from the name of our regional tree. What ship inspired the builders of the time? What we are sure of is that this ship existed in its current form in 1727, according to the description made by Masson Du Parc. There are several types of pinasses depending on the work required of it. At the beginning, it was designed to be propelled by oars. A small lug sail (belot: pronounced [belottel]) could be rigged to relieve the crew’s efforts. It was motorized from 1902 and the sails quickly disappeared from the pinasses.They reappeared during the Second World War, due to restrictions. On feast days, fishermen and oyster farmers organized regattas, times when the sail area could approach 30m2. At the beginning of the sixties these regattas disappeared and it was not until the beginning of the eighties that, thanks to the Amicale des Pinnaseyres, the “Queen of the Basin” was seen sailing again. Today, around thirty sailing pinnaces are in working order and it is a magnificent spectacle to attend, during the summer season.

Our boat: Pinasse Magymara

Harbor sights

And we are off

Everyone enjoyed the boat ride

The shoreline: Sights and an oyster bed

We arrived

Getting off the boat

Sights we saw walking around the town. Beautiful village.

Lunch at Ti Commerce

Entering the restaurant

Above, views from the restaurant.

Eating this great seaside meal.

The food

Besides the oysters we had shrimp and snails. For those with shellfish allergies, Megan brought pate, vegetables and other picnic goodies and of course we had plenty of baguettes!

After we finished Sydney, Dylan, Jacob, Kate, Sawyer and Finn decided to go down to the beach before we went back.

Our day at the dune and the village ended and we were headed to the boat to return. Everyone was tired.

Relax and a French BBQ

There were lots of surprises waiting for us. First, we had a relaxing and refreshing swim and game of volleyball.

Next we had a special drink and then a potato chip challenge.

Julien treated us to this special drink: The Floc de Gascogne. It is a regional aperitif from the Cotes de Gascogne and Armagnac regions of Sud-Ouest wine region of France. Gascony is the wine area between Bordeaux and Toulouse. It is a vin de liqueur fortified with armagnac, the local brandy. Floc de Gascogne is a mistelle, a vin de liqueur (a fortified sweet wine) made of 1/3 armagnac and 2/3 fresh grape juice both from the wine area Armagnac/Cotes de Gascogne. It was garnished with a strawberry, rosemary, and slices of lime and orange. It was delicious!!

Toasting and then on to the potato chip challenge.

Megan had us do a potato chip challenge. Please note the baskets of potato chips. She asked us to take a chip from each basket and then guess the flavor. We tested Chèvre et piment d’ Espelette (chili pepper), Poulet Braise, Sauce Curry, Fromage du Jura (a cheese from Brittany), Cheddar Jalapeño, and Pesto Mozzarella. It was tough. Not sure who the winner was but Sydney and Glenn were giving it a good try.

While waiting for the dinner to be cooked Sawyer and Finn taught us Swoop! It was a fun game and we ended up playing it several time during the week.

There were lots of tasks and Julien had many helpers. Julien was in charge of getting the BBQ ready.

Saucisse de Toulouse (pork) and a pork roast with mustard, paprika and oregano rub. In addition we had roasted potatoes and a couscous salad.

Then, to end our meal we had a very special lemon meringue pie! Julien made the lemon filling the evening before. Then Jacob and Dylan got in the act.

Dylan looking over Jacob spreading the meringue.

Then the torching began!

Voila!! The final pie. It was delicious.